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The Belly Boat
Report

Erich Licht
a.k.a. BassHunter
All Rights Reserved By Author
webmaster@gofishohio.com

   Over the years, I've fished a lot of "backyard" fishing holes. Some have been
small enough that you could throw a rock across. Then there is my neighbor
about 30 minutes to the north, the Great Lake Erie.

   Between those extremes, I've put a belly boat in just about every type of
water imaginable. And through it all I've got to tell you that fishing from my belly
boat it is the most enjoyable and just plain old FUN way to fish and stay cool
on hot summer days. And it is exhilarating to be eye-to-eye with a four-pound
bass (and BIGGER).

    This report is a guide to belly boating, or float tubing as some call it.
Whatever you prefer to call it, I'll cover it top to bottom and A to Z. Let's get
started...
.

  BELLY BOATS
    First, what exactly is a belly boat? Simply put, it is a inner tube which is covered with fabric and a seat
sewn into the middle for you to sit in. This allows for virtually the lowest profile presentation possible. You are
literally fishing from less than 30" high in the water. Try to get that low and be able to cast - comfortably - in
any other type of presentation.

    Most belly boats today have backrests and storage pockets as well. You can find lower priced belly boats
for about $50-$60, while fancier models can go for $150 and up. Let's look into the differences...

ORIGINAL ROUND BOATS
    I prefer the original-style "round boat". My first one is still going strong after 20 years of fishing trips. The
most recent addition to my fleet is also a round style. It has a taller backrest with storage pockets on both
sides. And it's also camouflaged, which was a big selling point with me. This boat cost about $80.00, and it
is definitely a worthwhile investment.

    Round boats have many advantages. They're the most stable, allow the most storage, and offer the most
protection from surface vegetation. They are the most economical choice with some models going for as low
as about $60.

    Some points for you to consider about a round boat is that while it can seem roomy inside, you cannot lift
your knees higher than the bottom of the front of the boat. This may become quite uncomfortable, especially
during a long day on the water. You'll find that the seats are not exactly recliners, but the round boat design
is stable enough for you to move your "cheeks" around during the day if you desire.

    Also, the round boats are considered to be the most difficult to get into. I find that there are those days
when it seems that way! However, as with everything, practice makes for a much more enjoyable experience.

   Always get a belly boat that fits YOU. Bigger is not better. You will find that if your boat is too large, a long
day on the water will turn into a very sore back. That's something that can be avoided. If you are like me - a
small 160-lb guy - then you simply don't need one of the largest boats available. Buy wisely. 

U-BOAT STYLES
   
Many newer boats are of the U-boat design. This means that instead of a normal inner tube, these boats
have special bladders which form the boat to a U shape. You sit in the round part and the front (across the
top) closes with a stout bracket or bar. This makes it easier for you to get in and out of the tube, as well as
much increased legroom. But remember, getting in and out is only a couple of minutes at the beginning and
end of your trip.

    A point to consider about the U-boat design is that it eliminates quick-fixes possible with a round boat.
Bladders must be special ordered instead of just going to the tire store for another tube should the need arise.

    Now while I don't have any first-hand experience with a U-shape boat, there are a number of reasons I didn't
choose one. First, I do travel forward while I'm fishing and feel that the U-design would let bugs, weeds, and
other stuff right into my lap. Also, I believe the round design to be more stable, especially if you're like me and
like to lift yourself up to stretch your legs during a long 8-hour day. U-boats would seem to be more difficult to
manuever in windy conditions. But again, these are just some points I considered in my own experience.

    And when I'm night fishing (which I'll cover later) I feel much more secure being totally enclosed.

OTHER STYLES
    I've seen pictures of plastic formed belly boats, however I have never seen one in use personally. Stick with
the normal inflatable bladder boats. Inner tubes can be repaired easily, and the new boats are equipped with
patch kits.

    Many of the newer boats are coming with a choice of their regular version and also a camouflage version.
You'll pay a little extra for the camo, but I feel that in the long run this will simply be another advantage in
your fishing. Just like all other types of fishing, you want to have every possible advantage on your side.

    Recently, I've run across ads for a motorized belly boat. Come on now. If you really want to be motorized
then invest in one of the small bass hunter boats and an electric motor, for a number of reasons we won't get
into here.

    The very ideal of belly boating is how absolutely simple it is. Your boat, flippers, tackle, and rods and reels
might weigh 15 pounds all together! You can easily walk to a remote lake a mile into the woods and have total
access
to fish that rarely, if ever, see lures!

    Try carrying a 60 lb. trolling motor battery a mile and then see if you feel like fishing.

KICK BOATS
   Within the past six or seven years, there has been a new boat come onto the market called a kickboat.
These are small, one person, pontoon-like boats in which your feet are normally in the water. They come
equipped with oars, and I imagine they were intended to fill the void between belly boats and jon boats.

    These kickboats range in price from $200-$500. A few of my main concerns about this type of boat is
portability and control on the water. These boats are generally sized in the 7' to 8' lengths, and may weigh
anywhere from 20 pounds and up. I'm looking at a catalog with one at 35 lbs total weight. Now, I don't know
about you, but that is like carrying a bowling bag! And that's not even including your tackle and other stuff!

    Control is one of the areas where belly boats really shine. Because your feet are always in the water, you
can constantly make adjustments. There's no need to re-adjust a trolling motor for direction or thrust and no
need for an anchor, though I'll touch on those in a minute.

    With a kick boat, however, you are sitting higher out of the water with much more boat for the wind to
catch. In order for you to keep the position you want, it may be necessary to put down your rod, grab the
oars, and position your kick boat where you want it - every time you have the need to do so! Anchors would
be a critical part of the gear, and more weight to carry. Even more so if you carry two.

    More to pack, more to carry, etc...

    With a belly boat - You do it ALL with none of the hassle!

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ACCESSORIES

FLIPPERS
   
Beyond the boat, your first item on the agenda is propulsion. Keep it simple and get the scuba flipper style.
Specifically look for the type where there is a strap to go around your heel and a 'pocket' in which your toes
are fully enclosed. These flippers will meet 99% of your boating situations, and I haven't yet happened across
the other 1%. Yet.

    I've seen comments from people who say that these type of flippers come loose or even fall off, but from
my own experience I haven't had any trouble. Make sure that the flippers are correctly adjusted, and then
simply put a stout rubber band around the loose part of the strap and you'll be set to go.

    Many neoprene waders came with "gravel guards", which are zip-up ankle protection meant to prevent small
stones and other painful things from finding their way into your boots. I've taken these and, after my flippers
are adjusted, put them over the strap and just extending a little higher than the flipper pocket. When I've got
my flippers on the gravel guards cover the straps - preventing them coming loose - and also streamline the
flippers and eliminate weeds from snagging and dragging.

    Get flippers that fit you a little bit LOOSE. Make certain that you'll be able to wiggle your toes around - this
is very important!  If your flippers fit too tightly, then your feet will be the first thing that start to ache, and that
is a very uncomfortable feeling. Get the bigger sizes, because in most situations I recommend that you wear
socks and/or neoprene waders.

    Tight fit flippers will cut off blood circulation to a degree, ending your day early.

    Why this style flipper? The largest size will easily accommodate your foot not only by itself, but with socks,
neoprene insulated waders, and even with some tennis shoes. They are easy to get on, and if the situation
arises, easy to get off as well. I've never had one slip off in the water (unless I took it off), so what else can you
expect from a flipper?

    Another choice is referred to as "duck fins". You work them just as if you were walking. When you step
forward the fin lays flat against your ankle. When you step backward - like you were walking - the fin flares out
and pushes you forward. I tried them once and that was enough for me. In a word....don't even bother.

    Here's why you'll want flippers. Speed, versatility, shallow water performance, and ease of use in cover. A
scuba fin has about 2-3 times the flat area of a duck fin, increasing your speed and also your maneuverability.
I can cover the same body of water as a duck fin user in less time and with up to 80% less effort. Which
means more time fishing.

    Maneuverability is noticeably enhanced. You'll have the ability to turn completely around with one or two
kicks, while with duck fins it takes longer. Plus, in the wind you'll work 2-3 times harder with duck fins.

    During a long day on the water, you'll appreciate the versatility of the flippers. Whereas the duck fins only
work in one fashion, you can use flippers and go backwards, forwards, deep, shallow, or sideways. Plus it is
much easier to overcome the wind because you are able to hold yourself in any position with the flippers.
This eliminates the hassle of anchors.

    In shallow water, the only way might be flippers. For the duck fins to work, your legs - at least from your
knees down - must be pointing down to obtain propulsion. On my leg that turns out to be about 20". Which
means water depth any less than that may present a problem. If you're face with a big wide mud flat that you
want to cross that's only 15" deep, it's always a long kick around the outside. And you simply cannot get up
and walk across a mud flat with duck fins on.

    With flippers, I've crossed flats about 8" deep. It's very easy to lean back a little and kick with straight legs
just below the surface. Sure, I could go around with less effort anyway, but I go mainly for the fishing, not the
exercise.

    In cover, the flipper has other advantages, among which is they are much more weedless than duck fins.
They are slim and slender, and weeds which may catch on your ankle can be easily removed by pointing your
toes and giving a few gentle kicks. Try to use duck fins while you kick through an underwater grass bed, or
through lily pads, and you'll discover that there is really no other alternative but a good set of flippers.

    As you can see, I'm a big supporter of flippers with belly boating. A really good pair is about $40. Get a
quality pair and you will not be disappointed.

ANCHORS
   
There certainly may be some situations where anchors are important, but for most of the conditions you'll
probably belly boat in, anchors will be more of a nuisance. Since half of you is in the water, a relaxed stroke
with your flippers will keep you in the ideal position as long as you want. Belly boats aren't plush recliners -
if you move around more than sit still you'll find them to be much more comfortable.

    Also, when you're into that huge bass, what would you do if she turned you around and got tangled up in
the anchor line? Or she runs out thirty yards in the opposite direction and gets wrapped up in some lily pads
and you don't have enough anchor line to reach to her?

    The stories you've heard are true. Bigger fish will drag you around, and that's part of the FUN. Keep it
simple. Consider your own situation. If you think you can do it without an anchor, go without one first. You'll
probably find that you don't need one. And you'll find it easier to carry that much less weight!

RODS AND REELS
    Choices depend on what you fish for. You've got a favorite fish, as well as a favorite rod and reel - so match
them up and go fishing!  I regularly bass fish, so here's what I normally take to the fishin' hole;

1) Medium action 7' spinning rod + medium light spinning reel with 8# line, and

2) Medium action 7' baitcasting outfit with 10# line.

    An important point - beware of rods with long butt sections, such as those that are normally called flippin'
sticks. Due to the restricted area inside a belly boat, longer handled rods become a nuisance. A rod with a
8"-10" handle behind the reel is probably the longest that you'll be able to comfortably use all day or all night
long.

    A 6' to 7' rod is a great all around size. You can use smaller rods, but let me pass along this little tip;
When you hook a fish and she's full of fight, the last place you want that fish thrashing around is next to your
boat. Especially with a mouthful of treble hooks on a minnow bait!

    Longer rods pose other problems such as getting the line rigged after a break-off, and tangles at the end
can be very frustrating.

    Spinning equipment makes it easier to throw lighter weight jigs and other small lures. A baitcasting outfit is
ideal for throwing spinnerbaits and heavier lures. I normally carry two rods with me (and have carried as many
as three), but I recommend that you start with one if you are just getting into belly boat fishing.

    When you set the hook, sweep your rod to the side. This will eliminate the possibility of a lure coming
right at your face or your boat.

WHEN YOU'VE HOOKED A FISH
   
Fish control is of the utmost importance. When you first hook a fish, your legs are down in the water, giving
you stability. Two things will happen - either you'll have to go to the fish, or the fish will come to you. If you've
got to go to the fish, move quickly and keep tension on your line. Don't just pull yourself over with your rod or
the chance for a break-off increases.

    Remember, with your flippers there is literally no place that you can't go.

    On the other hand, if the fish comes toward you, you've got to be ready and alert. When the fish is 15-20
feet away, tuck your legs up tight beneath you and point your flippers behind you. You will be in a position
like when you are kneeling on the floor. You'll find that most fish will be eager to dive right underneath you,
and you don't want to get your lure and a 9-pound bass (or any size bass) stuck to your flipper. Fish do that
a lot, so be expecting it.

    When you've got the fish ready to land, don't be shy. Whether you are lipping a bass or carefully gill-landing
a big pike, do it and do it quickly. Even a solid head shake at the side of the boat with a sharp-hooked lure
could put an early end to your day.

    If you hear a hissing sound, or you seem to be sitting in the water a little bit lower every few minutes or so,
get moving for the shore before it becomes a race to the shore and you get wet.

    Snags can have the same effect. If you get a snag, try to go to the lure. Don't start by yanking and pulling.
If the lure does come loose and flying towards you, you could be faced with rushing to the shore for repair of
your boat, or God forbid, repair of yourself. Above all, let's be safe. A snagged lure can quickly end your day -
ask my Devil's Horse topwater that was laughing when it put a hole in my boat during one of my early trips.

    You'll want to be sure that you keep things in order. Put away loose lures immediately, or you may find
them snagged on your arm or boat...or you may never see them again. Make sure there's a place for
everything and everything is in its place before you cast.

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A Line On SUPERLINES
   
Just a little commentary on the superlines. I just started using them and they are exceptionally strong and
easy to cast. However, they can be very rough on your tackle. One of the first things you'll notice is to have
your drag set properly. Since the lines have no stretch like mono, your drag may sing on strong hooksets.
Make sure it's adjusted properly.

    If you depend on your anti-reverse like I do, use caution with these superlines. Reels that are especially
susceptible to damage are self-centering spinning reels. If the bail isn't quite all the way at the top then it will
have to make almost a full revolution backwards before it will engage the anti-reverse. With no stretch and a
strong hookset your bail will take a beating. I have a Shimano out in the garage already that didn't survive.

    The newer reels have "instant anti-reverse". For me, this is one of my favorite new innovations. If you try
these superlines and like them, you will certainly want to consider this latest feature in some newer reels.

    I have had some problems using superlines and split rings. Many times the lines will nest in that area
where the ring comes together. I speculate that the sharp edges of the ring eventually nicked the line to the
point that during a hookset or snapping lures through weeds the line simply broke. I may have solved my
problem by using snaps. I went to the store and bought the smallest snap swivels I could find (size 14), cut
off the swivel and used the snap as a connection. So far this has worked well for me, and you may want to
try it, or eliminate it altogether and remove the split rings from your lures and tie on directly.

    The Palomar knot is my favorite - simple, easy to tie, and strong.

    One last point about superlines. Something that bothers me is that these new lines are not recyclable.
We've all seen peeled off fishing line on the shore before. Through all of its other considerations, keep that in
mind when you are deciding on whether or not it's for you. And please make every effort to pick up litter and
leave the pond, lake or stream in better shape.

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YOUR OUTFIT
    Being so low to the water decreases your vision at a distance. Therefore, invest in a quality pair of polarized
sunglasses. I fish in a wide-brimmed hat as well which eliminates extra glare and helps keep some of the sun
off of my face and neck - and a little added bonus is that my head doesn't get wet when it's raining!

    Invest in a good quality raincoat. I have a thinsulate rain-jacket (Thanks, Mom!) that I recently started using
and it is remarkably warm. Not only is it 100% waterproof, but it all but eliminates any concerns days with a
biting wind. And again, when you're out on the water, try to put everything you can in your favor.

    The belly boat is a stealthy design by itself, and you can increase your effectiveness by simply blending in.
Dress in blue or green clothing above the water. Below the water try dressing in green, brown, or black. How?
In the summertime an inexpensive pair of jogging pants is perfect! They will not only keep you relatively
camouflaged, but will also eliminate cuts, scrapes, and other unwanted sensations (leeches come to mind)
as you move through cover in search of Mrs. Big.

    During colder water periods and at night, wearing a pair of neoprene waders fits the bill. In fact, I wear my
neoprene waders most of the time now.

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WADERS
    Let's touch on waders. Up here in Ohio, the water gets a bit brisk into October and doesn't warm up again
until April or May. During those occasions, insulated chest waders are the way to go. A good quality pair of
neoprene stocking foot waders is all you'll need to take advantage of "chilly water" fishing.

    When the water is under 70 degrees, it's cold! If you are belly boating during the day, but especially at
night, if the wind starts to blow even briskly you'll know just how easy it is to get a chill.

    Uh-oh. What about flippers and waders? No worries! The same flippers that I mentioned at the top of this
report will accept your neoprene insulated wader-ed foot with no problem.

    In colder weather, your belly boat may seem to lose air. It's just the cold air and being in the cold water.
Simply make sure to check the inflation before you put in and you'll be fine.

    By the same token, try not to drive around with your belly boat, especially in very hot weather. If you do,
the tube will expand, causing stretching or possible failure at some of the seams. In addition, the cover will
be subject to undue wear and the possibility of a puncture is increased. Put a bike hook on the wall and keep
it in the garage.

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HOW ABOUT A LITTLE NIGHT FISHING?
    I make no bones about it, I love to belly boat at night. Belly boats, besides being lots of fun, are a great
tool to have when you're night fishing. You don't need lots of tackle and you'll probably be fishing around the
shoreline anyway.

    Let's cover a little of the ins and outs about night fishing from your belly boat. Some advice...Fish waters
that you know well. If you don't know them well, investigate them when it's daylight. Be sure the area you're
fishing has the potential that you desire.

    Try to take someone along with you. Truthfully, you should always take a buddy - it is not only safer, but
two heads are better than one should an emergency situation arise.

    First of all, it's always a good idea to wear waders. There are several reasons for this....

    When you belly boat in your summertime attire - such as jogging pants and a tee shirt - you'll notice that
water will soak into your clothes about 6-12" above the waterline. When it's a chilly night, such as anything
below 70 degrees, that water will get cold and that will make you cold. Without the luxury of the sunshine to
warm you up, when you get cold - you're cold. Believe me, I know. If you get a chill you won't have much fun,
so plan ahead and wear your waders.

    Also, waders help keep you insulated from anything in the water. By this I'm referring mainly to underwater
brush and vegetation, though leeches and turtles are always around. Yes, I have had my flippers nibbled on by
a turtle, but that is by far the exception to the rule.

    Since you won't be able to see where you're going this little bit of insurance is great for your peace of mind.

    In my home state of Ohio, here's what I'll wear (from the inside to the outside) when the water gets chilly: a
quality pair of socks, long underwear, a warm pair of jogging pants, and a thick pair of thermal socks pulled
over the top of the jogging pants On my upper body I'll wear long underwear, a t-shirt, a sweatshirt, and that
 Thinsulate Raincoat. My neoprene waders go over top of it all. On your hands wear some inexpensive gloves
with the fingertips cut off. During colder weather get a good pair of insulated gloves.

    It's always better to keep a little warm. A normal trip for me means I'm on the water for anywhere from 8 to
12 hours and catching a cold is never in the game plan. Remember - once you've got a chill, it is very difficult
to get rid of it.

    Always carry at least a flashlight with you. Even better would be a headlight, or one of those lights that
straps to your forehead. If you wear a hat when you fish then make sure you can comfortably wear the
headlight and quickly operate it with either hand. And make sure that the batteries are charged, and carry
an extra set in your belly boat.

    Of the utmost importance is to keep your tackle organized. When you're night fishing you'll discover that
your best lures will be of only a few different styles and colors. For example, when you're bass fishing you'll
find the most productive lures most times to be spinnerbaits, topwaters, and maybe some soft plastics. Even
the best casters will discover that trees seem to grow over the water at night - and soft plastics are relatively
inexpensive!

    Also, try to throw bigger lures. I throw 10" worms which I would normally not even use during the daytime.
Bigger lures give the fish something to find since they have to use their other senses besides sight. Steady
retrieves create a path for the fish to follow and will put more fish in your boat.

    Beware of bats, muskrats, and snakes. I haven't come across a snake yet, but muskrats will swim around
you to check you out. Once they scare the heebee-jeebees out of you after the first couple of tail slaps from
20 yards away, you'll find that they're just going about their business.

    Bats will sometimes try to zero in on your lures when you cast. Even though they'll generally miss, as they
buzz around the top of the water they may run right into your line. Ironically, it feels like a bluegill or panfish,
so don't set the hook unless you're sure!

    It may sound a little dangerous, and there are some things that you need to watch for and consider that
you normally don't in the daytime. However, the water you're on will most likely take on a much different
personality - a quiet, serene, mystical and shining place. And the fish are usually more than willing to bite!

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Let's Go Fishing!

    Are you ready to go? Good, let's get down to the shoreline and catch some bug 'uns. First off is your
shoes. Just tuck them in the top pocket on your backrest, and that way you can get out at any point on the
shoreline and walk if you need to. It's a good thing you wore jogging pants and socks like I did. Some of the
vegetation we're going to kick through gets pretty dirty. Thick, too.

    By the way, be VERY careful when you get in, especially when getting in from a spot where other people
normally shore fish. When those shore fishermen get snagged, they generally just break off and re-rig, so
there may be hooks, small lures, and fishing line that you can get tangled in, not to mention poking
a hole in your boat in the first five minutes.

    That's another kind of unseen bonus of belly boating. You'll find lures and be able to retrieve them from
virtually anywhere. I've already collected about $30 in broken off lures. It's almost like they grow on trees! HA!

    Here's how I get in. I put the belly boat in the water then ease both flippered feet into the leg holes. Now I
simply take my rod in one hand, then put both hands on top of the tube on each side. Using the tube to help
balance myself I walk into a little deeper water - anything over 20" or so is good - and then I just sit down.

    I try to walk forward. I know that is contrary to what most experts say when walking with flippers, but you
will generally walking down a small slope, and the flipper will give you additional balance. Besides, if you feel
yourself slipping or off-balance, then immediately SIT DOWN.

    There are lots of great ponds to belly boat within a major metropolitan area, which don't get a lot of fishing
pressure simply because they don't look like much and have limited shoreline access. I discovered these by
scanning through some county maps, circling the smaller ponds and lakes. Then it's just a matter of packing
up your stuff and getting there. Sometimes the lakes are great, and sometimes not. The great lake you find
will more than make up for all the lakes that didn't.

    Topographic maps are ideal for a belly boat strategy. Many larger lakes in the area have "topo" maps, and
they are fantastic tools to design your game plan. In the case of a small lake like this, we're just going to use this marked string with a heavy bolt at the end. It will instantly tell you how deep the water is.

    This is most enjoyable by just keeping things simple. Sure, there's a battery powered fish finder, and that's
also one more thing for you and/or your fish to get tangled up in. The more elements you have to deal with, the
greater the chance that something will get in the way.

    And that's the last thing you want when you're eye to eye with the big fish of the day.

    Is it really this simple? Of course! Listen.....you'll instantly know when the water temperature changes,
either around cover or near moving water. Beneath some types of cover the water may be warm, but beneath
another kind the water may be surprisingly cool.

    The challenge of boating in the wind can be negated with practice and experience. Since your legs are in
the water, you'll come to a point where you automatically adjust for the wind conditions without thinking about
it. I also have a small bass hunter boat and the wind blows it around quite a bit. With a belly boat you are in
complete control at all times.

    Remember, as you move along, stick your flipper down every now and then and feel for the bottom. You
may just happen across a shallow point or hump full of fish.

    Yes, you can get that close to the fish. Most fish I accidentally spook are three feet or less away. You may
even attract a small school of sunfish. On one occasion I even had a small turtle nibbling on my flipper. So
cute - but be careful that you don't step on any big snapping turtles when you're getting in or out.

    What depth are the fish at? I read a tip that said to lower a white spinnerbait down until it just disappears
Let's say 3 feet. Then, chances are that the fish are between that point and twice that depth, or between 3 feet
and 6 feet. Start there and fine tune your presentation.

    There are, of course, many other factors to consider. On smaller ponds look for cuts in the shoreline,
treelines, old roadbeds, isolated cover such as lily pads, beaver dams, and edges where two types of cover
meet. You'll be able to locate a creekbed and stay right on top of it by simply following the cooler water.
When the water temperature changes, the flow has changed direction beneath you.

    Establishing a pattern on some of these lakes could mean the fish of a lifetime. Don't pass these jewels up.
That small creek under the highway could hold a trophy rainbow. Want to fish rivers? Make certain you know
exactly where your river will take you before getting in. Unexpected shallow water or rocky drops could cause
disaster. However, these river excursions can be a very relaxing way to spend your day off.

    Find a buddy who would like to try this great method of fishing. Load up the boats in one car, then drive to
a spot a few miles downstream. Have them park there and hop into your car and head upstream. Then ease
into the river and enjoy a few hours floating downstream and catching some fish.

§«¤»Ą«¤»§«¤»Ą«¤»§«¤»Ą«¤»§«¤»Ą«¤»§«¤»Ą«¤»§«¤»Ą«¤»§«¤»Ą«¤»§
Remember...
Make it a habit to wear a life vest when you're belly boating. There are some
very comfortable ones out there, plus you'll like the extra storage in the pockets.
Most importantly - The life you save could be yours. Expect the Unexpected.

§«¤»Ą«¤»§«¤»Ą«¤»§«¤»Ą«¤»§«¤»Ą«¤»§«¤»Ą«¤»§«¤»Ą«¤»§«¤»Ą«¤»§

Catch and Release and Selective Harvest
   
I am a great believer in catch and release and selective harvest. However, you must be the one to make it
happen. Catch and Release is a great way to maintain a healthy population of fish, but in some waters 100%
catch and release can actually slow the growth of the fish.

    A camera can be your most important trophy tool. A picture will help you recapture exactly the emotions
you felt when you brought that trophy in - a moment frozen in time that you can relive whenever you look at it.
Plus you get the satisfaction of knowing that she's still out there waiting for you to catch her again!

    Find out what you can do to maintain your lakes, rivers, and reservoirs. Set an example and make your
local waters the outstanding fishing holes that you know they can be!

§«¤»Ą«¤»§«¤»Ą«¤»§«¤»Ą«¤»§«¤»Ą«¤»§«¤»Ą«¤»§

    As you can see, belly boats can be used virtually everywhere with an absolute minimum of hassle. You can
put together a really nice belly boat outfit for about $300, and that includes the boat, waders, flippers, and
tackle. They're easy to pack, easy to carry, easy to maneuver and fish from, and they open up total access
to the structure and shoreline of the lake or river.

    Over the years, I've caught lots of fish from a belly boat. I've been eye to eye with a six-pound bass. I know
that doesn't sound really big, but seeing this fish at eye level three feet away and I tell you - she might as well
have been Godzilla!

    There have been times when I was left dripping wet, and countless times that my heart has been pounding
so hard that small rings emanate from my belly boat.

    And also a time when I heard that dreaded hissing and had to race back to shore.

    Know what? I can't wait to get back out there! Send me your comments, belly boat stories, questions, and
keep in touch! See you on the water.....I'm going belly boating!

Great Weather & Tight Lines!
Keep It Airtight!

Erich a.k.a. BassHunter
gofishohio webmaster

This report may not be reproduced in any form, in whole or in part, without the express
written consent of gofishohio and the author. All Rights Reserved.

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Best Fishing Times is a feature of FishingInfoNet. God Bless Our Troops!
Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday

23            
Good Period
7:55a- 9:55a
8:20p- 10:20p

Excellent Period
1:43a- 3:43a
2:08p- 4:08p

24             
Good Period
8:44a- 10:44a
9:09p- 11:09p

Excellent Period
2:31a- 4:31a
2:56p- 4:56p

25              
Good Period
9:33a- 11:33a
9:58p- 11:58p

Excellent Period
3:21a- 5:21a
3:46p- 5:46p

26             
Good Period
10:23a- 12:23p
10:48a- 12:48a

Excellent Period
4:10a- 6:10a
4:35p- 6:35p

27            
Good Period
11:12a- 1:12p
11:37p- 1:37a

Excellent Period
5:00a- 7:00a
5:25p- 7:25p

28            
Good Period
12:00a- 1:37a
12:02p- 2:02p

Excellent Period
5:49a- 7:49a
6:14p- 8:14p

29             
Good Period
12:26a- 2:26a
12:51p- 2:15p

Excellent Period
6:38a- 8:38a
7:03p- 9:03p
First Quarter

Darker blue indicates days with better potential. Doug Hannon, "The Bass Professor", states that Good Periods are AT LEAST 75% as strong as Excellent Periods. Enjoy the Great Outdoors!

30            
Good Period
1:16a- 3:16a
1:41p- 3:41p

Excellent Period
7:29a- 9:29a
7:54p- 9:54p

1   MAY    
Good Period
2:06a- 4:06a
2:31p- 4:31p

Excellent Period
8:19a- 10:19a
8:44p- 10:44p

2              
Good Period
2:58a- 4:58a
3:23p- 5:23p

Excellent Period
9:10a- 11:10a
9:35p- 11:35p

3               
Good Period
3:52a- 5:52a
4:17p- 6:17p

Excellent ,Period
10:04a- 12:04p
10:29p- 12:29a

4              
Good Period
4:38a- 6:38a
5:03p- 7:03p

Excellent Period
10:50a- 12:50p
11:27p- 1:27a

5              
Good Period
5:39a- 7:39a
6:04p- 8:04p

Excellent Period
12:00a- 1:27a
11:52a- 1:52p
FULL MOON

6             
Good Period
6:40a- 8:40a
7:05p- 9:05p

Excellent Period
12:27a- 2:27a
12:52p- 2:52p

.

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